Hi all! I'm interested in the following question: how important is it to follow the recipe and technology for mixing tile adhesive? I personally mix “by eye”, according to the rule, first water, then glue, and periodically add one or the other so that the consistency is appropriate. I recently heard that you can’t do this, as it seems to affect the properties of the glue. Is this true or not?
If you expect to get a predictable and repeatable result, then adherence to the recipe and technology for mixing tile adhesive is fundamentally important. Since tile adhesive is sold in bags with the required dosage of components, the most important factor influencing the final solution will be the amount of water. Manufacturers indicate the required amount of water on the bag or in the technical data sheet for the product. As for what to add to what - dry mixture to water or water to dry mixture - I think this is a matter of taste or ease of use. The main thing is to re-knead after a technological break. That's what it says on the technical sheet.
I saw how experienced layers mixed tile adhesive. First, add approximately 80% of the total amount of water to the container, then pour out the dry mixture (the entire bag). Next, begin to mix the mixture with a mixer, gradually adding the remaining amount of water. No more dry mixture is added. If the solution requires a technological pause, then wait for it and mix again.
From the conversation I realized that an experienced master determines the exact amount of water during the mixing process “by eye,” so sometimes not all the water is poured out or, on the contrary, excess is added. The guideline for the required amount of water is taken from the technical data sheets for the product.
If you are working with tile adhesive for the first time, i.e. have not used it before, then strictly follow the requirements set out in the technical data sheet.
Yes, this is all clear. Instructions, recipe, etc. I am interested in SPECIFIC EXAMPLES of what a violation of the recipe leads to. Here is an example from personal experience: the glue was not mixed well (the volume was small, it was necessary to cover the window slopes with brick-like tiles). I was too lazy to go for the “mixer”, I mixed it with a spatula. I poured the glue into a container and filled it with water, started stirring, the mixture turned out to be heterogeneous with lumps, the lumps inside were dry. Perhaps if you stir it well, the situation would improve. But I didn’t have enough patience :) I threw everything away and glued it onto silicone (luckily the customer had one). But my sin is not on the “water into glue” or “glue into water” sequence, but on the fact that you need to use a special mixer for mixing tile adhesive, or a special attachment for a drill, if the volume is small (after that incident I always have it with myself :))))))
When working on sites, I several times came across mistakes that “masters” make when mixing mortar or adhesive for ceramic tiles. Below I will describe them with explanations. So:
I agree, all these points have their place. Well, except that we always take water from the tap, it’s never happened from a puddle :))))))) But the fact that we usually collect the dried pieces of glue on the sides and on the bottom and put them to use is 100%. I'll keep that in mind now, thank you!!! Continuing the topic, one more question. The last time I had a chance to work with Keracol, the glue is called “Extra” (I really didn’t see the original packaging, I took a discounted one with a torn bag in film), it’s a pleasure to work with and the glue mixes well and the tools are easy to wash. During the process of laying the tiles, I mixed it several times (so as not to dry out), and with this glue the mixture turned out to be very homogeneous without lumps, crusts and other garbage. I was laying an apron in the kitchen, half a bag was left, now I’m planning to tile the wall on the balcony, half a bag is not enough, but I have the remains of CM 11 from the site. It’s very convenient to work with the extra, the tiles don’t float or slide, and the SM is the SM... So I’m thinking of doing an experiment, what if the extra is released with the SM? Will thixotropy remain? What do you think?
Foreman, as a specialist in construction chemistry, I can ascertain to you that it is impossible to mix Kerakoll Extra and Ceresit CM 11 adhesives with each other, since these are different adhesives from different manufacturers. It is better to use them separately, even in the same area. Please note that CM 11 is designed for laying ceramic tiles, while Extra is suitable for ceramic tiles and porcelain stoneware.
However, each of us has a craving for experimentation. Therefore, from the point of view of an experimenter, I have the following considerations:
We will consider the lifetime, open time and adjustment time of the resulting solutions to be close to the indicators of CM 11. Foreman, after the experiment, write down the results.
This is actually a fairly common practice. We have enough alchemists :) But the result is unpredictable in any case and, of course, claims will not be accepted if something happens.
So, gentlemen! The experiment was a success!!! On the balcony I laid tiles in the 15X15 format, loosened the glue in the proportion - half a bag of "Extras" to a bag of CM11. Everything mixed well, stuck and hung. I glued it under a 1 cm comb, it didn’t leak or float. The wall was not big enough for my eyes. I’m unlikely to practice something like this in the future, “you never know.” I don’t want to let the customer down, but it’s quite an option for myself!
Foreman , thank you for the information on the experiment with glues.
Adding excess water can already degrade the final performance. Manufacturers of dry construction mixtures indicate this in their technical data sheets. For example: " The amount of water indicated on the packaging is indicative. You can get a mixture with more or less thixotropy, depending on the purpose. Adding excess water does not extend the workability of the glue; this can lead to a decrease in thickness in the plastic drying phase and deteriorate the final characteristics (surface hardness, compressive strength, adhesion to the base) ". Therefore, you should not get too carried away with breeding.