I have repeatedly noticed that paths and blind areas made of cement-sand mortar or concrete begin to crumble and dust after a while. There are articles on the Internet that suggest ironing the surface, they say, this will significantly extend the service life. However, opinions differ on how to carry out such a technological operation. I believe that the result may differ. In this regard, I ask forum members to share their experience in how and when to iron cement screed or concrete.
First you need to determine why cement coatings are ironed. The fact is that under the influence of gravity, particles of filler (sand, screenings) and cement settle. In this case, the top layer hardens and sets with a high water content, which negatively affects the mechanical strength and resistance to abrasion of the floor. To increase the resistance of the top layer of the floor to abrasion, use iron reinforced cement screed.
For use exclusively on horizontal surfaces. Let the fresh cement coating settle for a bit (about 6-7 hours). After this, you can treat the surface with a primer to increase adhesion. If there is no primer, then you can do without it.
Next, you need to evenly, for example through a sieve, scatter cement (or a special composition) over the surface of the coating in a layer of about two millimeters. The resulting layer must be compacted and left for some time (20-30 minutes). Since our surface is not yet completely dry, the powder will draw moisture out of it and turn into dough. This is what needs to be carefully smoothed, which will give the coating surface the required properties. Smoothing should be done manually with a grater or a trowel, preferably for a long time until the surface acquires a bluish-black color. Small irregularities on the surface will reduce slipping; they can be achieved by moving a grater or smoother left and right.
The wet ironing method can be used for both horizontal and vertical bases. It is necessary to sift the cement powder through a sieve. Some other strengthening materials, such as sand or “liquid” glass, can be added to the cement component. The addition of lime will give the composition elastic characteristics; its content should be equal in a ratio of 1:10 to cement. Add water to the dry mixture, resulting in a kind of “dough”. When preparing the mixture, it is important to maintain the proportion of sand and cement, which should be 1:1.
Once the solution is ready, it should be applied to the concrete base and spread with a spatula. The spreading process aims to obtain a smooth surface. Now the concrete base should be left to gain strength.
If the screed is intended to be ironed using the wet method, it is permissible to begin such work no earlier than 2 weeks after pouring the concrete . During this period, the base will have the required ratio of strength and humidity.
The concrete path on the street has been in use for the fourth season. In some places there are abrasions, dents, cracks, the top layer is slightly dusty. Is it possible to carry out ironing using the wet method? More precisely, will it make sense?
Did you prepare the mortar for the path yourself from cement and sand or buy it at the factory? By the way, did the concreting work take place under your supervision?
I believe the questions relate to the quality of materials and work performed on the concrete path. So, the solution for concreting was prepared on site from cement, sand and screenings, somewhere in the proportion of 1:3:5. They poured and leveled it themselves. There are curbs on the sides. In general, the path is strong, but the appearance has lost, plus it is a little dusty. We walk along it, sometimes we roll a cart on rubber wheels.
I am considering several options to give a beautiful appearance:
Of the proposed methods for updating the appearance of a concrete path, the least labor- and money-intensive is ironing the top layer of the coating using the wet method. In this case, the neat appearance will last for another three or four seasons. And then the procedure can be repeated. As an alternative, you can use a special impregnation as a hardener for crumbling floors, increasing their wear resistance. True, this is a more expensive pleasure.
Before applying the material, the base must be cleaned of dust and dirt. It makes sense to sand the surface; significant cracks and irregularities need to be expanded and leveled.
The good thing about the wet ironing method is that it can be used on mature concrete and cement bases.
Yes, I agree with Nikanorych , ironing the top layer using the wet method is the least expensive option. It is logical to use paving slabs when it is permissible to raise the level of the path above the ground. If you are planning to pour a new layer of screed, then avoid using self-leveling mixtures. Otherwise, you will suffer with curbs or formwork; the solution will constantly flow away where it is not needed. I had such an experience. Set the thickness of the new screed layer to 3 centimeters or more. Use primer or adhesion milk.
What thickness of solution should be chosen when ironing using the wet method? Are there any restrictions on minimum or maximum layer thickness? What to do with pits and dusty areas?
I will answer in order: