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User avatar Dmitry Kedrov
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Was here: 2 years 11 months ago
With us from: 21/10/14
Messages: 6
Tile classification options

So let's sum up the intermediate results. In order to take into account all the characteristic features of each category of tiles, the entire variety of tiles can be reduced to the following classification:

  1. BY CLAY TYPE: pottery (red clay); earthenware (white clay); porcelain (a mixture of white clay, kaolin, quartz and feldspars).
  2. BY MOLDING METHOD: extrusion, pressing, casting.
  3. BY SURFACE TREATMENT METHOD: glazed, unglazed.
  4. BY FIRING METHOD: single, double, triple.
  5. BY TYPE OF SHELL: porous, compacted, vitrified (vitreous).
User aden avatar
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With us from: 03/09/14
Messages: 42
Kerakoll Extra plus Ceresit CM 11

Foreman, as a specialist in construction chemistry, I can ascertain to you that it is impossible to mix Kerakoll Extra and Ceresit CM 11 adhesives with each other, since these are different adhesives from different manufacturers. It is better to use them separately, even in the same area. Please note that CM 11 is designed for laying ceramic tiles, while Extra is suitable for ceramic tiles and porcelain stoneware.

However, each of us has a craving for experimentation. Therefore, from the point of view of an experimenter, I have the following considerations:

  1. if we are laying ceramic tiles on the wall (with a water absorption of 3%), then we will mix Extra and CM 11 in a ratio of 50 to 50 to 20 to 80. It is not worth taking a smaller amount of Kerakoll Extra, since we will not feel comfortable when working with this glue . The mixture will have thixotropy because both of these glues have this property.
  2. If we are laying porcelain stoneware on the wall (water absorption is less than 0.5%), then we will take at least 2/3 Extra. And this point is fundamental, since Ceresit CM 11 is not intended for laying porcelain stoneware. The mixture will be thixotropic.

We will consider the lifetime, open time and adjustment time of the resulting solutions to be close to the indicators of CM 11. Foreman, after the experiment, write down the results.

User avatar Brigadier
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Was here: 2 years 1 month ago
With us from: 20/10/14
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It is much more convenient to work with leveling solutions in bags

I'll express my opinion. If we are talking about such objects as apartments (especially small-sized ones), then here an ordinary internship “rests”. The customer will not even consider the difference in cost when he imagines what he will need to supply to the site: cement, sand, mixing container. That every brigade has a concrete mixer? But every team has a mixer!!! And to pour a cement screed, you need at least two people, and even more if loading and unloading work is involved. You will have to mix in portions, in some places there is too much water, in others there is more cement... And with ready-made levelers it’s a nice thing! The customer bought it, delivered it, and picked it up. One master is quite capable of diluting it, mixing it with a mixer, pouring it and leveling it.

Larger objects are a different matter, of course there is a screed there. But there are more people and different tools.  

User avatar Brigadier
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I agree, all these points

I agree, all these points have their place. Well, except that we always take water from the tap, it’s never happened from a puddle :))))))) But the fact that we usually collect the dried pieces of glue on the sides and on the bottom and put them to use is 100%. I'll keep that in mind now, thank you!!! Continuing the topic, one more question. The last time I had a chance to work with Keracol, the glue is called “Extra” (I really didn’t see the original packaging, I took a discounted one with a torn bag in film), it’s a pleasure to work with and the glue mixes well and the tools are easy to wash. During the process of laying the tiles, I mixed it several times (so as not to dry out), and with this glue the mixture turned out to be very homogeneous without lumps, crusts and other garbage. I was laying an apron in the kitchen, half a bag was left, now I’m planning to tile the wall on the balcony, half a bag is not enough, but I have the remains of CM 11 from the site. It’s very convenient to work with the extra, the tiles don’t float or slide, and the SM is the SM... So I’m thinking of doing an experiment, what if the extra is released with the SM? Will thixotropy remain? What do you think?  

User aden avatar
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Was here: 9 months 2 days ago
With us from: 03/09/14
Messages: 42
High price - payment for comfort in work

According to the main technical characteristics, cement-sand mortar and dry mixture in bags are materials of the same order. Of course, subject to the technology of performing the work. In my opinion, the significant difference in the cost of these materials is due to the “comfort” in working with them. That is, the higher the price, the greater the comfort. Here we can draw an analogy with motor transport. You can drive a distance of 100 km in a Matiz, or you can drive a Bentley. However, the comfort level of the trip varies.

Let's return to the screeds. To feel comfortable, you need to work independently with both the CPR and the dry mixture in bags. I will highlight several factors for dry mixtures in bags that affect comfort :

  1. bags of 25 kg mixture can be easily moved on site manually;
  2. the components are in the right proportion, you only need to add water;
  3. the solution is mixed well with a mixer;
  4. The mixture is easy to stretch.
User aden avatar
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Messages: 42
Common mistakes when preparing tile adhesive

When working on sites, I several times came across mistakes that “masters” make when mixing mortar or adhesive for ceramic tiles. Below I will describe them with explanations. So:


  • Pour the mixture into the container, then add water and begin to mix.

  • As a result, lumps of dry mixture may remain in the corners of the container (wall-bottom junction).
  • As a rule, these poorly mixed lumps of the mixture go to work, and therefore the technical characteristics of the solution in some areas will differ from those declared by the manufacturer.
  • To avoid this, you must first add water to the container, and then add the dry mixture.
  • process water from the heating system, or dirty water from a puddle or swamp, or sea water is used.

  • As a rule, this leads to the appearance of additional substances in the solution, and therefore the technical characteristics of the solution may differ from those declared by the manufacturer.
  • Clean drinking water must be used.
  • When mixing, the remains of the solution are used, the life of which has already expired.

  • In this case, the technical characteristics of the prepared solution may differ from those declared by the manufacturer.
  • adding extra water.

  • The result here can be reduced adhesion and/or reduced mechanical compressive strength.
  • User avatar Brigadier
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    Was here: 2 years 1 month ago
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    Consequences of incorrect mixing

    Yes, this is all clear. Instructions, recipe, etc. I am interested in SPECIFIC EXAMPLES of what a violation of the recipe leads to. Here is an example from personal experience: the glue was not mixed well (the volume was small, it was necessary to cover the window slopes with brick-like tiles). I was too lazy to go for the “mixer”, I mixed it with a spatula. I poured the glue into a container and filled it with water, started stirring, the mixture turned out to be heterogeneous with lumps, the lumps inside were dry. Perhaps if you stir it well, the situation would improve. But I didn’t have enough patience :) I threw everything away and glued it onto silicone (luckily the customer had one). But my sin is not on the “water into glue” or “glue into water” sequence, but on the fact that you need to use a special mixer for mixing tile adhesive, or a special attachment for a drill, if the volume is small (after that incident I always have it with myself :))))))  

    User aden avatar

    From my experience working with Fugalite Eco epoxy grout, I would like to make the following comments:

    1. Fugalite Eco components can be mixed manually, i.e. without using a mixer;
    2. If you want to mix part of the grout from the package, be sure to weigh the required amount of each component on a scale, accurate to the nearest gram;
    3. To obtain a metallic decorative effect, use the additive Fuga-Glitter ;
    4. water for diluting Fuga-Wash, approximately 25 - 35 degrees Celsius. This will allow for more effective cleaning of unhardened residues and traces of grout;
    5. To remove hardened residues and traces of Fugalite Eco, use Fuga-Soap .
    User aden avatar
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    Messages: 42
    White tile adhesive monoporosa (monoporosa)

    White adhesives are also recommended for use when working with monoporosa ceramic tiles - single-firing wall tiles . Let me explain what this tile is.

    The production of monoporosa is carried out using a technology similar to that of monocottura production, using a press and subsequent firing of tiles on which the glaze has already been applied. But the use of other components of the batch causes a change in both the physical characteristics and the scope of application of this tile, which are more close to bicottura.

    High-density single-fired ceramic tiles, such as monocottura and porcelain tiles, are made using clay that has a high iron oxide content and the addition of a feldspar-based flux to provide strength. To make monoporosa, clay is required that is highly saturated with carbonates, the importers of which are France and Germany. As a result of firing, a white mass is created that has high porosity and moisture absorption. Its strength is significantly lower than monocottura; therefore, the tile itself has a thickness of about 12 mm and is used for interior decoration .

    This technology makes it possible to produce large slabs. And, if in the production of bicottura a significant thickness of the enamel layer is required in light colors in order to hide the red base, then in monoporosis the white base eliminates such measures. This allows them to be executed in imitation of natural marble.

    User avatar Vasily Petyaev
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    Preparation of the mixture by an experienced master

    I saw how experienced layers mixed tile adhesive. First, add approximately 80% of the total amount of water to the container, then pour out the dry mixture (the entire bag). Next, begin to mix the mixture with a mixer, gradually adding the remaining amount of water. No more dry mixture is added. If the solution requires a technological pause, then wait for it and mix again.

    From the conversation I realized that an experienced master determines the exact amount of water during the mixing process “by eye,” so sometimes not all the water is poured out or, on the contrary, excess is added. The guideline for the required amount of water is taken from the technical data sheets for the product.

    If you are working with tile adhesive for the first time, i.e. have not used it before, then strictly follow the requirements set out in the technical data sheet.

    User avatar Zhuk Slava
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    Preparing the mixture

    If you expect to get a predictable and repeatable result, then adherence to the recipe and technology for mixing tile adhesive is fundamentally important. Since tile adhesive is sold in bags with the required dosage of components, the most important factor influencing the final solution will be the amount of water. Manufacturers indicate the required amount of water on the bag or in the technical data sheet for the product. As for what to add to what - dry mixture to water or water to dry mixture - I think this is a matter of taste or ease of use. The main thing is to re-knead after a technological break. That's what it says on the technical sheet.

    User avatar Denis Enko
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    Two basic principles for classifying tiles

    There is a wide variety of parameters by which the classification of ceramic tiles is possible, but the basis is based on two basic principles that take into account: physical and chemical features, technological features of production.

    Names such as terracotta, cottoforte , majolica , gres porcelanato , gres , clinker , faience are technical terms, each of which corresponds to certain physical and chemical characteristics of the raw material.

    Another classification takes into account one of the stages of the technological process, namely firing. Widely used technical and commercial names: single firing , double firing , porous single firing , triple firing - have a technological basis.

    Tiles classified in this way have their own technical and commercial names. Due to the fact that Italy has historically been a leader in the production of ceramic tiles, these names have become commonly used, although each country has its own terminological classification, implying a specific technological process, raw material composition, etc.

    User aden avatar

    If you decide to use Fugabella Eco Porcelana 0-8 for outdoor use, then avoid red and yellow colors . Over time they will fade. Not all colors of this cement grout have good (increased) color fastness. See the technical card for more details.

    The technology for troweling work shown in the video is correct, I recommend following it.

    User avatar Alexander Bear
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    Classification of tiles by shard type

    I know that ceramic tiles are classified according to the type of shard :

    1. porous;
    2. compacted;
    3. vitrified (vitreous).

    Vitrification is the process of converting raw materials into a glassy mass.

    User avatar Vasily Petyaev
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    Classification of tiles by firing method

    Ceramic tiles can be classified according to the firing method :

    1. single;
    2. double;
    3. triple.

    Information about the firing stage of ceramic tiles .

    User aden avatar

    In our practice, Superflex Eco was used to cover the metal staircase leading to the second floor with granite steps. The work was carried out in May 2010, all the steps are still in place, there is no tendency for peeling or destruction. For the master, comfort when working with glue is as follows : simple and easy application, increased open time and adjustment time.

    An important point: after hardening, the glue can only be removed mechanically. Therefore, Superflex Eco residues from tools and tiled surfaces are removed with a damp cloth or alcohol while the adhesive is fresh.

    User avatar Mikhail Grishin
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    Was here: 3 years 3 months ago
    With us from: 25/09/14
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    Classification of tiles by surface treatment method

    Ceramic tiles can be classified according to surface treatment method :

    1. glazed;
    2. unglazed.

    The glazing process is described here .

    User avatar Gennady Sliva
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    Messages: 15
    Classification of tiles by molding method

    Ceramic tiles can be classified according to the molding method :

    1. extrusion;
    2. pressing;
    3. casting.

    More information on molding methods can be found here .

    User avatar Zhuk Slava
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    Messages: 20
    Classification of tiles by type of clay

    Ceramic tiles can be classified according to the type of clay :

    1. pottery (red clay);
    2. earthenware (white clay);
    3. porcelain (a mixture of white clay, kaolin, quartz and feldspars).
    User avatar Denis Enko
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    THREE TIMES FIRED

    Triple firing – decorating tiles on a glazed surface, followed by firing (a fourth and fifth firing is possible) at a low temperature. Initially, this method was used in decorating dishes and porcelain.

    Benefits of the third firing:

    • wide color variety, firing at low temperature (750-800 degrees Celsius);
    • the ability to use precious metals - gold and platinum, metal chandeliers, etc.

    Triple firing involves the production of expensive tiles of high artistic value, which originate from hand-made tiles.

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