In the technical data sheets of waterproofing products manufactured in Europe, water resistance is determined based on the maximum pressure measured in Bars . For example, for waterproofing Nanodefense Eco (manufacturer Kerakoll) waterproofness ≥ 3 bar.
Water resistance is the ability of concrete not to allow water to pass through under pressure that gradually increases to a certain value.
The following grades of concrete are distinguished by water resistance: W2, W4, W6, W8, W10, W12, W14, W16, W18, W20. Numbers 2-20 indicate the maximum pressure in atmospheres at which water infiltration through a 150 mm high cylinder sample has not yet been observed under standard test conditions (for example, for concrete grade W2, the water resistance of samples is 0.2 MPa = 2 atm).
As a rule, ordinary concrete has a water resistance grade lower than W2.
Cement waterproofing materials have a water resistance grade of W2-W16.
Water resistance is the ability of concrete (or waterproofing) not to allow water to pass under pressure. W2, W4, ... W20 indicate the grade of concrete, and the numbers 2, 4, ... 20 indicate the pressure value in Pascals (though I forgot in kilos and megas).
The criterion for choosing tiles is surface hardness
Surface hardness is a mechanical characteristic of the tile that determines the resistance of the surface to cuts and scratches when exposed to objects rubbing against the surface. Such impacts cause damage, often visible to the naked eye, which is especially noticeable on a bright, shiny and monochromatic surface.
As a rule, glazed and unglazed ceramic tiles are relatively hard, and scratches only affect the aesthetic properties of the cladding, without damaging its functional qualities. Other materials are less resistant to such damage; often the cut passes through the entire facing layer, and the material loses not only aesthetic, but also functional properties.
Choosing tiles with appropriate characteristics is certainly important, but not the only condition for the strength and durability of the cladding. Careful preparation and proper arrangement of floors and walls are required.
Wall and floor cladding is a multi-layer system consisting of a coating, a layer, a base, and there may also be a separating layer (hydro-, thermal-, sound insulation). External conditions influence and are reflected in the entire cladding system.
Criteria for choosing tiles - according to surface treatment method
The surface of the tile is also a very important selection criterion. On the one hand, glazed ceramic tiles have a wide range of colors and patterns, on the other hand, unglazed ceramic tiles are more uniform throughout the entire thickness without variations or interruptions in color across the entire surface and thickness of the tile. Directions for use are obvious, especially if high strength is required in conditions of strong abrasive influences on the tiles.
Thank you, it’s clear and understandable with closed and open seams. What are seams with a width of 1 to 5 mm called? They are most common in cladding.
The photo on the left shows an installation using an open joint, the distance between the tiles is more than 5 mm (10 mm is often found). The photo on the right shows an installation using a closed joint, the tiles are practically touching each other, the distance is 1 mm or less. Suitable for rectified tiles.
Criteria for choosing ceramic tiles - molding method
The forming method affects the geometric configuration of the tile. As a rule, it is impossible to achieve such careful control over the surface and dimensions with the extrusion method as with the pressing method. these parameters into account when choosing ceramic tiles.
Extruded tiles should only be laid with open joints. And tiles made by pressing can be laid with both open joints and closed joints.
Criteria for choosing ceramic tiles - water absorption
Petyaev Vasily is growing before our eyes, his comments began to look respectable and contain useful information. But I will add the following.
Tile water absorption is measured by the amount of water that a ceramic tile absorbs under certain laboratory conditions and is expressed as a percentage of the dry weight of the tile. Moisture penetrates through the pores of the material, which communicate with the outer surface of the tile, thus water absorption also measures the porosity of the product. For example, this type of porosity is called “open” (while with a “closed” type of porosity, the pores do not communicate with the outer surface in any way). Thus, water absorption corresponds to a porous structure, while dense, vitrified products are characterized by a low degree of it.
Porosity affects the physical and chemical properties of the tile. This is why EN standards use water absorption as a parameter to classify ceramic tiles. When choosing tiles, you must keep in mind that the lower the degree of water absorption of the tile, the more resistant the tile is to intense mechanical and hydrothermal influences.
Criteria for choosing ceramic tiles - water absorption
To do this, you need to carefully study the material itself. For example, when choosing a tile, it is necessary to take into account its technical characteristics, but also not to forget about the aesthetic and decorative selection criteria.
The beetle is truly a skilled politician, giving a general answer or pointing in the direction. To use such information you will have to “carefully study the material itself.” I'll try to take on some of the work myself. So, one of the important parameters is water absorption .
A high degree of water absorption means that the structure is porous, and a low one (the value approaches zero) indicates the density of the structure. As a rule, the lowest water absorption values correspond to higher tile characteristics such as mechanical strength, hardness, abrasion and chemical resistance (implies unglazed tiles) and frost resistance. At the same time, it is necessary to remember that the structural density is obtained through the use of appropriate raw materials and high firing temperatures, with the formation of a significant part of the liquid phase in the tile mass. This requires significant control over the dimensional characteristics, because There is a risk of varying not the flatness of the surface, but the size of the working size of the tile. For porous tiles this poses virtually no threat.
To do this, you need to carefully study the material itself. For example, when choosing a tile, it is necessary to take into account its technical characteristics, but also not to forget about the aesthetic and decorative selection criteria.
I’m unlikely to practice something like this in the future, “you never know.” I don’t want to let the customer down, but it’s quite an option for myself!
Foreman , thank you for the information on the experiment with glues.
Yes, I agree with Nikanorych , ironing the top layer using the wet method is the least expensive option. It is logical to use paving slabs when it is permissible to raise the level of the path above the ground. If you are planning to pour a new layer of screed, then avoid using self-leveling mixtures. Otherwise, you will suffer with curbs or formwork; the solution will constantly flow away where it is not needed. I had such an experience. Set the thickness of the new screed layer to 3 centimeters or more. Use primer or adhesion milk.
Of the proposed methods for updating the appearance of a concrete path, the least labor- and money-intensive is ironing the top layer of the coating using the wet method. In this case, the neat appearance will last for another three or four seasons. And then the procedure can be repeated. As an alternative, you can use a special impregnation as a hardener for crumbling floors, increasing their wear resistance. True, this is a more expensive pleasure.
Before applying the material, the base must be cleaned of dust and dirt. It makes sense to sand the surface; significant cracks and irregularities need to be expanded and leveled.
The good thing about the wet ironing method is that it can be used on mature concrete and cement bases.
So, gentlemen! The experiment was a success!!! On the balcony I laid tiles in the 15X15 format, loosened the glue in the proportion - half a bag of "Extras" to a bag of CM11. Everything mixed well, stuck and hung. I glued it under a 1 cm comb, it didn’t leak or float. The wall was not big enough for my eyes. I’m unlikely to practice something like this in the future, “you never know.” I don’t want to let the customer down, but it’s quite an option for myself!
Yep, it's been a while since I came here! Well, you piled up calculations and formulas... The person was confused. I appeal to every CUSTOMER or CONSUMER - Stop getting on your nerves. Are you asking how much you will take? As a master, I’ll tell you, with such a customer - NOT FOR MUCH!!! If he is thinking about saving on tile adhesive, preferring a cement and sand solution - this is already a diagnosis! It would be better if, instead of tiles, I collected the battle near the store - everything will be more economical!!! I laid it on cement with sand, when I was still a kid, my dad and I were tiling the stove at the dacha, and we fucked for a week! And every year then they restored it. Until one day I completely remade it (with tile adhesive, by the way). What is the savings in ruining the stove, walls, floor...your mood in the end? Buy yourself the cheapest instrument for balance! So that the tile cutter breaks on the first tile :))))))))) There are different adhesives, there are very inexpensive ones. Okay, I'm confused about something. Remember gentlemen: THE STINGY PAYS TWICE
I believe the questions relate to the quality of materials and work performed on the concrete path. So, the solution for concreting was prepared on site from cement, sand and screenings, somewhere in the proportion of 1:3:5. They poured and leveled it themselves. There are curbs on the sides. In general, the path is strong, but the appearance has lost, plus it is a little dusty. We walk along it, sometimes we roll a cart on rubber wheels.
I am considering several options to give a beautiful appearance:
In the technical data sheets of waterproofing products manufactured in Europe, water resistance is determined based on the maximum pressure measured in Bars . For example, for waterproofing Nanodefense Eco (manufacturer Kerakoll) waterproofness ≥ 3 bar.
Water resistance is the ability of concrete not to allow water to pass through under pressure that gradually increases to a certain value.
The following grades of concrete are distinguished by water resistance: W2, W4, W6, W8, W10, W12, W14, W16, W18, W20. Numbers 2-20 indicate the maximum pressure in atmospheres at which water infiltration through a 150 mm high cylinder sample has not yet been observed under standard test conditions (for example, for concrete grade W2, the water resistance of samples is 0.2 MPa = 2 atm).
As a rule, ordinary concrete has a water resistance grade lower than W2.
Cement waterproofing materials have a water resistance grade of W2-W16.
Water resistance is the ability of concrete (or waterproofing) not to allow water to pass under pressure. W2, W4, ... W20 indicate the grade of concrete, and the numbers 2, 4, ... 20 indicate the pressure value in Pascals (though I forgot in kilos and megas).
Surface hardness is a mechanical characteristic of the tile that determines the resistance of the surface to cuts and scratches when exposed to objects rubbing against the surface. Such impacts cause damage, often visible to the naked eye, which is especially noticeable on a bright, shiny and monochromatic surface.
As a rule, glazed and unglazed ceramic tiles are relatively hard, and scratches only affect the aesthetic properties of the cladding, without damaging its functional qualities. Other materials are less resistant to such damage; often the cut passes through the entire facing layer, and the material loses not only aesthetic, but also functional properties.
Surface hardness is measured on the Mohs scale.
Choosing tiles with appropriate characteristics is certainly important, but not the only condition for the strength and durability of the cladding. Careful preparation and proper arrangement of floors and walls are required.
Wall and floor cladding is a multi-layer system consisting of a coating, a layer, a base, and there may also be a separating layer (hydro-, thermal-, sound insulation). External conditions influence and are reflected in the entire cladding system.
The surface of the tile is also a very important selection criterion. On the one hand, glazed ceramic tiles have a wide range of colors and patterns, on the other hand, unglazed ceramic tiles are more uniform throughout the entire thickness without variations or interruptions in color across the entire surface and thickness of the tile. Directions for use are obvious, especially if high strength is required in conditions of strong abrasive influences on the tiles.
Seams when laying tiles with a width of 1 to 5 mm are called ordinary. Indeed, they are the most popular.
Thank you, it’s clear and understandable with closed and open seams. What are seams with a width of 1 to 5 mm called? They are most common in cladding.
The photo on the left shows an installation using an open joint, the distance between the tiles is more than 5 mm (10 mm is often found). The photo on the right shows an installation using a closed joint, the tiles are practically touching each other, the distance is 1 mm or less. Suitable for rectified tiles.
What are we talking about here? What are open and closed joints? The seams between the tiles or something.
The forming method affects the geometric configuration of the tile. As a rule, it is impossible to achieve such careful control over the surface and dimensions with the extrusion method as with the pressing method. these parameters into account when choosing ceramic tiles.
Extruded tiles should only be laid with open joints. And tiles made by pressing can be laid with both open joints and closed joints.
Petyaev Vasily is growing before our eyes, his comments began to look respectable and contain useful information. But I will add the following.
Tile water absorption is measured by the amount of water that a ceramic tile absorbs under certain laboratory conditions and is expressed as a percentage of the dry weight of the tile. Moisture penetrates through the pores of the material, which communicate with the outer surface of the tile, thus water absorption also measures the porosity of the product. For example, this type of porosity is called “open” (while with a “closed” type of porosity, the pores do not communicate with the outer surface in any way). Thus, water absorption corresponds to a porous structure, while dense, vitrified products are characterized by a low degree of it.
Porosity affects the physical and chemical properties of the tile. This is why EN standards use water absorption as a parameter to classify ceramic tiles. When choosing tiles, you must keep in mind that the lower the degree of water absorption of the tile, the more resistant the tile is to intense mechanical and hydrothermal influences.
The beetle is truly a skilled politician, giving a general answer or pointing in the direction. To use such information you will have to “carefully study the material itself.” I'll try to take on some of the work myself. So, one of the important parameters is water absorption .
A high degree of water absorption means that the structure is porous, and a low one (the value approaches zero) indicates the density of the structure. As a rule, the lowest water absorption values correspond to higher tile characteristics such as mechanical strength, hardness, abrasion and chemical resistance (implies unglazed tiles) and frost resistance. At the same time, it is necessary to remember that the structural density is obtained through the use of appropriate raw materials and high firing temperatures, with the formation of a significant part of the liquid phase in the tile mass. This requires significant control over the dimensional characteristics, because There is a risk of varying not the flatness of the surface, but the size of the working size of the tile. For porous tiles this poses virtually no threat.
To do this, you need to carefully study the material itself. For example, when choosing a tile, it is necessary to take into account its technical characteristics, but also not to forget about the aesthetic and decorative selection criteria.
Foreman , thank you for the information on the experiment with glues.
Yes, I agree with Nikanorych , ironing the top layer using the wet method is the least expensive option. It is logical to use paving slabs when it is permissible to raise the level of the path above the ground. If you are planning to pour a new layer of screed, then avoid using self-leveling mixtures. Otherwise, you will suffer with curbs or formwork; the solution will constantly flow away where it is not needed. I had such an experience. Set the thickness of the new screed layer to 3 centimeters or more. Use primer or adhesion milk.
Of the proposed methods for updating the appearance of a concrete path, the least labor- and money-intensive is ironing the top layer of the coating using the wet method. In this case, the neat appearance will last for another three or four seasons. And then the procedure can be repeated. As an alternative, you can use a special impregnation as a hardener for crumbling floors, increasing their wear resistance. True, this is a more expensive pleasure.
Before applying the material, the base must be cleaned of dust and dirt. It makes sense to sand the surface; significant cracks and irregularities need to be expanded and leveled.
The good thing about the wet ironing method is that it can be used on mature concrete and cement bases.
So, gentlemen! The experiment was a success!!! On the balcony I laid tiles in the 15X15 format, loosened the glue in the proportion - half a bag of "Extras" to a bag of CM11. Everything mixed well, stuck and hung. I glued it under a 1 cm comb, it didn’t leak or float. The wall was not big enough for my eyes. I’m unlikely to practice something like this in the future, “you never know.” I don’t want to let the customer down, but it’s quite an option for myself!
Yep, it's been a while since I came here! Well, you piled up calculations and formulas... The person was confused. I appeal to every CUSTOMER or CONSUMER - Stop getting on your nerves. Are you asking how much you will take? As a master, I’ll tell you, with such a customer - NOT FOR MUCH!!! If he is thinking about saving on tile adhesive, preferring a cement and sand solution - this is already a diagnosis! It would be better if, instead of tiles, I collected the battle near the store - everything will be more economical!!! I laid it on cement with sand, when I was still a kid, my dad and I were tiling the stove at the dacha, and we fucked for a week! And every year then they restored it. Until one day I completely remade it (with tile adhesive, by the way). What is the savings in ruining the stove, walls, floor...your mood in the end? Buy yourself the cheapest instrument for balance! So that the tile cutter breaks on the first tile :))))))))) There are different adhesives, there are very inexpensive ones. Okay, I'm confused about something. Remember gentlemen: THE STINGY PAYS TWICE
I believe the questions relate to the quality of materials and work performed on the concrete path. So, the solution for concreting was prepared on site from cement, sand and screenings, somewhere in the proportion of 1:3:5. They poured and leveled it themselves. There are curbs on the sides. In general, the path is strong, but the appearance has lost, plus it is a little dusty. We walk along it, sometimes we roll a cart on rubber wheels.
I am considering several options to give a beautiful appearance:
Pages